Wednesday, April 28, 2010

HIPPOS!

During our third day in Wa, we traveled to a small surrounding village called Wechiau. The only, and I mean only, attraction within an hour of this village is the hippo sanctuary started by a Peace Corps volunteer in the 90’s. We spent 2 hours in a dugout canoe on the Black Volta River which provides the boundary between Ghana and Burkina Faso. Our guide, Adams, (yes, Adam with an “s”) and our canoe-rower if you will, Thomas basically rowed so quickly we felt like we had a motor attached to the canoe, amazing! No wonder everyone in Ghana has huge muscles. They were able to lead us to the island in the river where the hippos spend the hot days in the water. There were about 10 of them in the middle of the river just staring at us while we enjoyed the wildlife. We pretty much became one with Mother Nature. Not only that, but we were able to cross the border (a little illegal, no passport stamped here) to the Burkina side of the river. Hello African country #2. I mean it was only 10 minutes, but we HAVE been there now. Took some photos and videos to prove it. From here we called it a day and headed back up the river.

Back at the sanctuary “office” Katie met her future husband, his name is Muhammad. He’s Muslim but they decided to raise the kids Catholic. They called it a day, so more on that later. We’ll let you know when the wedding will be.

We left Wa at 7:30 am on an ever so lovely public bus… for all you soccer fans.. we shared a bus with THE Michael Essien (he looked a little younger in person but he did have the jersey) For those of you who don’t know, Essien is Ghana’s pride and joy soccer player. The bus was headed to Kumasi but Katie and I had other plans. We alighted in a drive by village known as Tinga (also known for their illegal mining). It was here that we were in search of Kwame Joseph, another friend of Mimi’s (the last one on our list to find)… and lo and behold, after being bombarded by 40 non-english speaking men, not Kwame Joseph, looking at a picture of Kwame that we carried, we found his brother who led us to Kwame Joseph himself. Miraculous! We met his children, saw his house, bought a round of drinks at the local pub (yes, 9am) and then we boarded the most horrible taxi we have ever been in. It started out ok, we were 5 people in a 5 seater car… it was when they tried to put the sixth person in that things got rough. The driver proceeded to smack Katie’s leg telling her “push over push over.” Which Katie responded with “I can’t push, there’s nowhere to push to.” So naturally, I’m closest to the door which means the window went down and my head went out while I hugged the door to make room for our 6th guest. The other backseat passenger with Katie and I seemed to be taking some sort of sleeping pill seeing as how she slept through all of this while her wig proceeded to blow in the wind to the point of destruction. Needless to say, when the big 6th man got out of the backseat, wig lady was down and out for the count, dead to the world. She would not move over into the open seat leaving Katie and I squished for the duration of the 1.5 hour drive (head still out the window). I have now experienced wind burn in Africa.

We are now back in Takoradi enjoying some cooler weather after the 105 degree temps. In the north. Thanks you Sub-Sahara. Back to Kasoa on Friday to prepare for the 3rd and final term at school. When school starts we will be left with only 1.5 months in Ghana. 4th of July USA here we come!- Love you all, miss you!

Pictures will be uploaded to Picasa within the next week. Look out for those.

African Village.. I think so

Off the beaten path, and I mean OFF the beaten path you will find a lovely quaint little village known as “Sankana.” Katie’s aunt, Mimi, spent two glorious years in Sankana while in the Peace Corps. It was our mission, with the help of a 5 pictures and a few local names, to find all of Mimi’s friends from her time here. We began our search at 7:15 am under a large tree, and by 7:30 we were drinking “pito” (local brew) out of calabash bowls with a man named Kwame Kumfra, one of Mimi’s good friends. This was the beginning of a very eventful day. We got a taste of true African Village life. Kwame introduced us to many villagers who knew Mimi, and he showed us her house complete with a tour of the inside which now has electricity. We also came upon some white chalk written on the wall spelling “die ants.” Apparently while Mimi was living here 11 years ago she was told that the magic juju chalk would fix her massive ant problem. There were no ants, so maybe it worked. If you would like to order some magic juju chalk to help with your insect problems, please contact Kwame Kumfa in Wa, Ghana Upper West Region. Don’t worry, if you need to find him personally you just go to the large tree, drink pito and ask for the chalk man. They will kindly point you in the right direction.

Also in Sankana we were fortunate enough to try a local dish yet to be tasted by yours truly Megan and Katie, and NEVER to be tasted again. EVER! EVER! You will never find something so utterly repulsive in your life as this dish known as, Sao/Teazzard (a slimy dough substance poop ball) eaten with green shoup (as Kwame called it, we think he meant soup, but we prefer to use the local dialect). Katie was smart enough to stay far away from the green “shoup” however I am an idiot and flet drawn in by the slimy green cassava leaves in sandy liquid. NEVER again will I be duped into something this exotic and green shoupyness. Sick… Mimi, how did you live here? In order to even begin to describe the taste of the green shoup you need to close your eyes, take a deep breath, and try to imagine the most horrendous smell you have ever come across… this is the taste of green shoup. Now, combine the smell of a truck stop bathroom multiply that by 5 then add that to the smell of month old stagnant water combined with dirty diapers and topped off with (nope, not a cherry) but a dash of sand and a hint of (not salt) vomit. This was one tenth of the green shoup experience. Not only did tears form in my eyes, they ran down my face as I ever so slyly warned Katie to stay away from the green shoup and smiled at Kwame’s mother who kindly prepared the shoup and stated “this is delicious.” (keeping in mind she spoke no English, I hope my smile was more convincing than the tears on my face)…I’m a big fat liar. However we did receive more pito after this, which I kindly handed over to Katie (I don’t even like beer, let alone local fly covered brew). So, I carried my cross and Katie carried hers. Champs? I think so.

The end of our Sankana experience was a little more uplifting. We met Jacob, Mimi’s next door neighbor and good friend. He put us in touch with his brother Nicholas who had moved to Wa and opened his own welding shop due to the kindness of Mimi who put him through apprenticeship school while she was here. Nicholas ended up being the greatest discovery of Wa (next to the invitation we received to become the next wives of chief of Wa). We tried convincing Nicholas that we would be great apprentices to welding, so he let us have a go at it. Success! He also drove us all around town on his motorcycle and we had the chance to meet his wife and daughter.

Wonderful Wa


From Sunyani, approx. 5 hours north, is a great place known as Wa… in Degari (local language) meaning “come.” So we responded to the call of Wa… and we went. We took it upon ourselves to stay at the Catholic Spiritual Renewal Center, let’s just say we left 4 days later feeling renewed spiritually, thank you Wanye Spiritual Renewal Center. We aren’t sure if you had to be religious if you wanted to stay there, but they didn’t ask so we got the sister discount.

While in Wa, we met two classy gentlemen named LaCase and Maxwell. They became two very good friends and our personal tour guides. Not only did we take porridge, rice in a community bowl, and yam fufu, with these two cool cats, but they also showed us the Wa-Na (meaning chief of Wa) Palace complete with 42 rooms for each wife and a personal introduction to the CHIEF OF WA!!! The Wa-Na himself. Yes, we had to remove our flip flops and bow down and clap our hands 4 times before we could sit up and address the chief, well not the chief directly, but his personal sidekick. No one may talk directly to the Wa-Na but we think he kinda liked us so he let a few words slip and spoke to us. The reason for this could be that we received, personally from the Wa-Na himself, local tribal names. Katie is Tibuorataa meaning “let us love one another.” Meg is now known as Suntariba meaning “one who helps and looks after others.”

Sweetness of Sunyani


From Takoradi, the second leg of our “Epic Journey” as we have so named it… began with a ever so lovely stay with the School Sisters of Notre Dame in Sunyani. Sunyani is in the Brong- Ahofo region up north. It was approximately 7 hours by tro-tro from Takoradi. Let’s just take a minute to discuss the horrific environment of a Ghanaian tro-tro. Small crowded buses from the 80’s (we’re not even sure how they are still running), jam packed with too many people sweating to death. Most of the time there are broken windows, rusted out floors, and a goat or chicken riding under the seats. On special occasions you will pick a seat where you can watch the road beneath you as you’re riding or perhaps you will choose the seat close to the gear shifter where the engine runs so hot it melts the bottom of your flip-flops… take your pick.

The SSND’s (sisters) were extremely hospitable and took excellent care of us. Our connection to these sisters comes from a very special person named Linda Cahill (Katie’s friend)… Linda’s mother’s cousin is a woman named Sister Kathleen Feely (could be one of the most incredible people on the face of the planet because neither of us can really see ourselves at 75+ kickin it in Ghana). Anyhow, Kathleen was a treat. We had our first bowl of cereal in 8 months (it was powdered milk made with water, but hey, it tasted great to us). We also were able to meet up with Sister Kate, who’s studying at the Catholic University in Sunyani as well as a few of the brothers who are studying and living there. Sunyani was a great place to rest and relax before we headed even farther into the bush country of Africa… Wa! – Wa is in the Upper West region.

2 Terms Down, 1 to go!!!


Alright, first off… big apologies coming your way. Sorry readers. It’s been a little longer than usual. Katie and I have been a bit busy enjoying our last few months here in Ghana. We’re currently sitting in Takoradi while there are monsoon rains outside. Welcome RAINY SEASON!... This blog is going to be co-written, community effort.
Since our last blog we’ve been hitting up the beaches, loving our kiddos, and running a few workshops for the teachers. We had a nice Easter and on April 15th we wound up the 2nd term. Everything is going well on our end. The kids ended the term with their ever famous “Our Day.” Apparently this is a custom that happens all over Ghana on the last day of each term. We thought it was just something special for our school, oh well. The kids come dressed in their “house dress” as they call it. We have no classes, only music, dancing, fun, and eating. Then we let out of school at noon…. And off we went to Takoradi to begin our break from school starting in the most important place, the beach. FREEDOM!